The richest embroidery of India is the Zari and the zardozi / Zardosi, which is known since the late 16th century. This art form was introduced in India by the Mughals. Zari zardozi is a form of embroidery, which came to India from Persia. Its literal translation, Zar means gold and Dozi means embroidery. Zari zardozi embroidery undergoes the process of using metallic-bound threads to sew on the various products. This skill of embroidering practiced by artisans of early days has passed on this trade among their families and local communities.

 Under the Mughal rule in Indian subcontinent, this embroidery technique became an art. Many artisans lived by it but at some point of time the royal patronage was withdrawn and the embroidery saw a decline. In modern day India, the work gained favour again  – instead  of the royals, the brides and even the bride grooms have taken zardozi work in a big way for their trousseau and designers use this work to embellish their signature outfits.

Zardozi is the work of a skilled hand of the artisans and their creative designs. The process of Zardozi is divided into following steps:

• Tracing

• Setting of Adda

• Embroidery

• Finishing

Tracing:

The process of embroidery starts with tracing the motifs on the plain cloth. The motifs are first sketched on a tracing paper or butter paper and small holes are made on the outlines of the designs using a needle. Thereafter the cloth is placed on a flat surface and the tracing sheet is placed on the position the motif is required. Artisans either use a mixture of neel and kerosene or chalk power and kerosene. A cloth dipped in either of the two solutions is rubbed on the khaakha (tracing sheet) so that the solution seeps through the holes and reaches the cloth. Thus the designs get traced on the cloth. This process is called as Chapaai and is done by either men or women who are referred as Chapai wale/ wali.

Setting the Adda:

It is wooden frame on which the cloth to be embroidered is stretched tightly making it suitable for working. This frame has adjustable knockdown bars resting on four stools or post at four corners. The frames can be adjusted according to the width of the cloth. These frames are large and mainly made up of sheesham as it is strong, but sometimes bamboo is also used as a substitute. One frame can accommodate 4-6 artisans sitting on both the sides. The height of the frame is 1.5-2 feet above the ground. The artisans sit either on floor or cushions. If the design is small, then a smaller metal frame can also be used instead of the wooden planks.

Embroidery:

The cloth to be embroidered is first stitched to the Patti (thick cloth) attached to the adda. Thereafter with the help of aari (needle) the embroidery is initiated. The hook at the tip of the aari enables the artisan to pass the threads both above and below the fabric. The needle works same as a sewing machine. This method of embroidery is highly time consuming and therefore expensive too. Depending on the intricacy it may take a day or a month to complete a design.

Finishing:

Once the embroidery is done extra threads are cut and the cloth is taken out from the adda. It then goes for washing and finally gets ironed and packed and then sold in the market.